Glashutte, Cal. GUB 09-20, Women’s Manual Wind

Glossy Black Dial with Applied Silver-Tone Markers

The dial uses a deep glossy black finish that changes noticeably as reflections move across its surface. Twelve applied silver-tone baton markers form a simple hour display, matched by slim silver-tone hour and minute hands. There is no seconds hand, date window or additional complication, leaving the dial unusually clean and allowing the small proportions of the watch to remain visually balanced.

The script Glashütte signature sits in the upper half of the dial, with 17 RUBIS printed below the center and MADE IN GDR along the lower edge. Those markings place the watch clearly within the East German period of Glashütte production rather than the modern era. The dial remains highly legible and its minimal two-hand layout gives the watch a more restrained appearance than many jewelry-oriented ladies’ watches of the same decade.

24 mm Case with Compact Traditional Ladies’ Proportions

The case measures approximately 24 mm across and 30 mm lug to lug, with a narrow 10 mm strap width. These dimensions are characteristic of traditional women’s watches from the period, but the simple round case and straight projecting lugs give this example a cleaner, more functional profile than an ornate jewelry watch. The polished silver-tone exterior frames the black dial with strong contrast.

Visible signs of age and use remain around the case, crown and crystal, consistent with an original vintage watch rather than a heavily refinished example. It is currently fitted with a woven brown-and-black fabric strap that complements the monochrome dial while keeping the overall presentation understated.

GUB Cal. 09-20 — 17-Jewel Miniature Hand-Wound Movement

Inside is the Glashütte GUB Cal. 09-20, a compact 17-jewel manual-wind movement developed for small watches. Despite its miniature dimensions, the caliber uses a conventional lever escapement and operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour. It was designed specifically for the limited space available inside ladies’ wristwatches and became one of the characteristic small mechanical movements produced by Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe during the East German period.

The movement has been fully serviced and the watch is supplied with a 12-month movement warranty. Its traditional hand-wound construction makes it mechanically very different from the quartz ladies’ watches that had become increasingly common by the mid-1980s. Buyers interested in similar mechanical pieces can browse our manual-wind vintage watches.

A Mechanical Glashütte Watch from the Late GDR Era

Produced in 1986, this watch comes from the final years of East German mechanical production in Glashütte. VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe continued manufacturing traditional mechanical calibers alongside increasingly dominant quartz technology, and the 09-20 remained in production as a compact movement for ladies’ and jewelry-oriented watches.

That historical context gives this small watch more substance than its dimensions might suggest. It combines genuine Glashütte manufacture, an in-house 17-jewel GUB movement, original watch components and a clearly identifiable MADE IN GDR dial signature in a very compact format. Similar period pieces can also be found among our women’s vintage watches.