Glashutte Women's Vintage Watch Cal. 23

Glashutte Cal. 23, Women’s Dress Vintage Watch, 1962 — First impression

This Glashutte ladies wristwatch captures the glamorous side of early 1960s East German watchmaking. The compact octagonal case, champagne-tone dial and integrated bracelet form a single sculptural object on the wrist, closer to a piece of jewellery than a conventional timepiece. Roman numerals at the cardinal points, paired with slim baton markers, give excellent legibility despite the small diameter, while the minimal two-hand layout keeps the design clean and uncluttered. The warm gold plating contrasts nicely with the lighter dial, emphasising the geometry of the faceted bezel. It is an unmistakably period-correct design: chic, architectural and confident without feeling ostentatious, ideal for someone looking for a distinctive vintage dress watch rather than a modern reinterpretation.

Champagne Octagonal Dial

The dial is a softly toned champagne colour that complements the case and bracelet without disappearing into them. A printed inner square frames the minute track and creates a pleasing depth effect inside the small case. At 12, 3, 6 and 9 you find bold Roman numerals, while the remaining hours are marked by slim black batons that echo the case’s angles. The classic Glashutte script and “17 Rubis” wording underline the mechanical nature of the watch. Despite the dial’s compact dimensions, the layout remains airy and readable, making time checking effortless even at a glance.

Pencil Hands

The watch uses a pair of black pencil hands that stand out crisply against the light dial. Their length has been carefully judged: the minute hand reaches towards the minute track for precise reading, while the shorter hour hand points clearly at the hour indices. The absence of a seconds hand contributes to the calm, elegant character of the design and emphasises the watch’s role as a refined evening companion rather than a tool watch. Combined with the clear Roman numerals, the hands give the watch a timeless, dressy aesthetic that sits comfortably alongside far more expensive European pieces from the same era.

Faceted Gold Plated Case

The distinctive octagonal case is gold plated and sharply faceted, with a raised bezel that neatly frames the dial. Measuring around 20 mm across, it offers a delicate presence on the wrist while the angular shape adds visual impact. Polished surfaces catch the light beautifully, underlining the jewellery character of the piece. The case sides drop vertically to meet the integrated bracelet, creating a seamless transition with no conventional lugs. On the wrist, the profile is slim and comfortable, sliding easily under a shirt cuff yet sparkling when it catches the light at different angles.

Crown

The small, fluted crown at three o’clock is gold tone to match the case and sits neatly within the case band. Its fine ridges provide sufficient grip for daily winding, while the modest size preserves the flowing line between case and bracelet. There is no oversized logo or crown guard to break the silhouette, which is typical of Glashutte’s discreet design language during this period.

Glashutte Textured Gold Tone Mesh

A key highlight of this watch is the original integrated bracelet. Crafted in a textured, gold-tone pattern that recalls fine fabric or snakeskin, it tapers gracefully from the case towards the clasp. Because the bracelet is integrated, the watch wears like a continuous band of metal, reinforcing its jewellery feel. The fine links give good flexibility and comfort, allowing the watch to sit flush against the wrist. For collectors who appreciate cohesive design, the way the bracelet echoes the case’s facets is especially satisfying.

Glashutte Cal. 23, Women’s Dress Vintage Watch, 1962 — Wearing experience and proportions

Although the case diameter is only around 20 mm, the combination of octagonal geometry and broad integrated bracelet gives the watch real presence. It is perfectly proportioned for a vintage ladies wristwatch and will suit a wide range of wrist sizes thanks to the adjustable bracelet clasp. The low profile and light weight make it easy to wear throughout the day, whether with formal eveningwear or a more relaxed outfit. This is a piece that feels at home at a dinner, concert or gallery opening, adding a subtle flash of vintage glamour rather than shouting for attention.

Glashutte Cal. 23, Women’s Dress Vintage Watch, 1962 — Movement and technical character

Inside the case beats Glashutte’s Caliber 23, a manually wound movement with 17 jewels, designed during the GDR era for slim dress watches. It is a robust, straightforward calibre known for reliable timekeeping and ease of servicing. Winding is smooth and positive, with a reassuring resistance that reflects the quality of the keyless works. The movement has been fully serviced, which means it has been disassembled, cleaned, lubricated and regulated by a professional watchmaker, so you can expect stable performance for regular wear. While not a high-complication calibre, the Cal. 23 represents the practical, engineering-focused approach that made Glashütte a centre of European horology long before reunification.

Heritage of the Glashutte in early 1960s design

This watch sits at an interesting point in Glashutte history, when East German manufacturers were balancing state planning with a desire to maintain the town’s long-standing watchmaking reputation. The Cal. 23 family was used in a variety of slim dress watches aimed at both domestic and export markets, often paired with striking case shapes and integrated bracelets like this one. The octagonal form and textured bracelet capture the optimism of early 1960s design, blending geometric forms with a clear decorative intent. For collectors who already know Swiss and Japanese classics, adding a GDR-era Glashutte offers a different perspective on mid-century mechanical watchmaking.

Glashutte Cal. 23 Condition, originality and buying with confidence

This example is in attractive, honest vintage condition. The gold plated case and bracelet show only light wear consistent with careful use, preserving the sharp facets and the distinctive texture of the bracelet. The champagne dial appears well preserved, with print and indices remaining crisp and legible. The integrated bracelet and clasp are original to the watch, as are the hands and crown, and all original watch components have been retained. The movement is fully operational and has been freshly serviced, and the watch is offered with a 12-month mechanical warranty for peace of mind. Although originally conceived as a ladies piece, it will appeal to anyone who appreciates finely made, jewellery-style vintage timepieces. If you are building a focused collection of elegant dress watches, you may also wish to discover other gold-tone dress timepieces in our curated vintage watch selection. As with all vintage watches, water resistance is not guaranteed and we recommend avoiding exposure to water.