Tag Heuer Professional WD1214 G 20

Tag Heuer Professional WD1214 G 20 — First Impression

The Heuer Professional WD1214 G 20 from 1993 is a robust yet refined example of early 1990s Swiss quartz diver design. With its 39 mm stainless steel case, striking blue unidirectional bezel, and 200 m water resistance, this timepiece embodies precision timekeeping in challenging environments. The deep blue dial, luminous markers, and upgraded high-quality blue rubber strap create a cohesive, professional-grade aesthetic. Built around the proven Swiss ETA 955.112 quartz movement, it delivers accuracy, durability, and minimal maintenance — ideal for both active wearers and collectors seeking reliable vintage Swiss watchmaking.

Tag Heuer Professional - Blue Diver’s Dial

The dial presents a rich blue hue with a subtle matte texture, ensuring clarity in bright sunlight and underwater conditions. Circular, rectangular, and triangular hour markers, each filled with luminous material and outlined in white, provide maximum legibility. A crisply printed minute track surrounds the layout, while the TAG Heuer shield logo at 12 o’clock and “Professional 200 Meters” text at 6 o’clock affirm its tool-watch pedigree. The 3 o’clock date window with white background and black numerals integrates seamlessly into the design, balancing functionality and style.

Mercedes Hands

The handset is purpose-built for legibility, led by a bold, luminous Mercedes-style hour hand. The elongated minute hand, also luminous, ensures accurate timing of dives, while the slender seconds hand with a lumed circular marker aids in visibility against the dial’s blue backdrop. All hands are finished in polished steel, reflecting light dynamically for quick reading from any angle.

Stainless Steel Case

The 39 mm stainless steel case offers a balanced profile, robust enough for professional diving yet comfortable for daily wear. Brushed upper surfaces enhance its utilitarian appeal, while polished flanks add a refined contrast. The unidirectional rotating bezel, with its vivid blue insert and clear white numerals, aligns with ISO dive watch standards, featuring a luminous pip at 12 o’clock for timing accuracy. Crown guards flank the screw-down crown, ensuring both protection and water resistance integrity. The slightly domed crystal completes the case’s classic diver silhouette.

Heritage of the Heuer Professional in 1990s Swiss Diver Design

The WD1214 G 20 belongs to the Heuer Professional 200m series, a line that defined TAG Heuer’s dive watch identity in the late 1980s and early 1990s. These watches bridged the gap between robust tool watches and stylish everyday wearers, appealing to enthusiasts who valued Swiss precision and practical engineering. Powered by the ETA 955.112 — a high-accuracy, low-maintenance quartz caliber — the WD1214 G 20 reflects an era when quartz technology was optimized for reliability in professional sports timing and underwater exploration. Its enduring appeal lies in its blend of functional design, dependable movement, and maritime-inspired color scheme.

Heuer Professional — Condition, Originality & Collectibility

This WD1214 G 20 remains in excellent used condition, fully serviced and fully operational. The stainless steel case retains sharp lines with minimal wear, the dial and bezel are clean, and the luminous elements remain functional. The strap has been replaced with a new, high-quality blue rubber unit — not original TAG Heuer, but chosen to complement the watch’s maritime aesthetic. All other components are original to the watch. Backed by a 12-month warranty and offered with worldwide shipping, it represents a desirable acquisition for collectors seeking a dependable, era-authentic quartz diver. You can also view more timepieces of this style in our diving vintage watches from the 1990s with stainless steel cases category.